OKLAHOMA RE-BOLTING PROJECT
Donation protected
Since saving climbing access in the Wichita’s nearly thirty years ago, climbers have had to jump through hoops to replace the bolts on the refuge and it's been a tedious process to acquire permits and replace all the bolts placed in the 1970's and 80's.
The time has come for a mass replacement of all climbing hardware throughout the Wichita Mountains, 400 routes and Quartz Mountains, 100 routes. The local climbers have partnered with the Land Managers to come up with an amicable plan to replace all old existing hardware with brand new disguised stainless steel hardware.
After showing the Land Managers how passionate our local climbers are about these sacred areas with our replacement efforts on the Lost Dome formations and in the Narrows, a new re-bolting permit has been negotiated for Crab Eyes, Hidden Wall and Echo Dome!
For the past 10+ years the Texas Mountaineers have been instrumental in the re-bolting efforts, along with countless others, and we continue to strive for hole for hole replacement. That means that no additional holes are drilled. The old rusty bolts are extracted using specialized tools, then the hole is cleaned and a new bolt is pounded in and torqued to specifications in the same hole. This is Sustainable Bolt Management.
The bolts and hardware placed in the heyday of rock climbing in the Wichita’s and Quartz are mostly non stainless, constantly deteriorating with each year of rain and snow. Old deteriorating bolts are potential death traps even for experienced climbers, and we seek to replace them with well camouflaged stainless steel bolts which will not rust, and are easily removable/replaceable for future generations. We would like to return all routes to their original levels of safety, and allow climbers of all experience levels to enjoy climbing without having to wonder about the age of rusted hardware.
A stainless steel painted hanger and bolt cost around $8, so a donation of $25 would mean about 3 lead bolts replaced. The cost for an anchor ranges $40 - $60 depending on the need for chain, rap links, or lower offs. It is crucial that the hardware be disguised so that climbing continues to be viewed as minimally invasive. The upgraded hardware should last upwards of 50 years before needing to be replaced. With around 500 roped rock climbing routes in the two areas mentioned above, that equals quite a few bolts!!
Our goal of $5000 would replace a multitude of aging rock climbing anchors which are far overdue for replacement.
All funds donated will go directly to the Texas Mountaineers (a 501 (c) nonprofit), and will be used expressly to purchase stainless steel climbing hardware and replacement parts for re-bolting tools, which will serve our community of climbers for the next generations.
The Texas Mountaineers have put in over $1000 dollars replacing in excess of 65 bolts using funds from membership dues over the years.
At Lost Dome, around $700 dollars for bolts, rings and chains were installed.
In the Narrows, Close to $600 worth of hardware.
Please take a moment to check out some of these photos of our current progress.
All the bolts at Lost Dome have been replaced hole for hole. Here is a volunteer using a tool donated by the Access Fund.
A bolt from the route "Wild and Crazy" in The Narrows, it was replaced with a stainless steel bolt and hanger.
Out with the ancient, in with the shiny, new and sustainable!
An excellent day's haul of aging hardware from a re-bolting mission a couple months ago. That day we tackled "masters of reality" and some more obscure but not forgotten routes on zoo wall.
An new bolt being carefully replaced on "Scrotum Roof".
A 5 piece bolt being extracted on "Wild and Crazy".
A fresh bolt with a painted hanger from FIXE Hardware. You can barely see the bolts from the ground they are so well camouflaged!
Tensioning on a hook on a freezing cold winter day while replacing the ever so classic jug haul "Aerial Anticipation" in The Narrows.
New bolts and chains on "League Of Doom". The entirety of Lichen Wall was finished in a couple days by various knowledgable volunteers. This included "Nubian Dance" and "Isabelle", test piece routes which have not seen ascents since the heyday. Go and get it done!
Hand drilling a longer hole to replace a button head with a proper bolt.
Here is an example of what we are doing. We plan to make more informational videos of the processes in the future.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ItUJk9MKTi8
Any donation amount is helpful and greatly appreciated.
Kindly email any questions to [email redacted].
The time has come for a mass replacement of all climbing hardware throughout the Wichita Mountains, 400 routes and Quartz Mountains, 100 routes. The local climbers have partnered with the Land Managers to come up with an amicable plan to replace all old existing hardware with brand new disguised stainless steel hardware.
After showing the Land Managers how passionate our local climbers are about these sacred areas with our replacement efforts on the Lost Dome formations and in the Narrows, a new re-bolting permit has been negotiated for Crab Eyes, Hidden Wall and Echo Dome!
For the past 10+ years the Texas Mountaineers have been instrumental in the re-bolting efforts, along with countless others, and we continue to strive for hole for hole replacement. That means that no additional holes are drilled. The old rusty bolts are extracted using specialized tools, then the hole is cleaned and a new bolt is pounded in and torqued to specifications in the same hole. This is Sustainable Bolt Management.
The bolts and hardware placed in the heyday of rock climbing in the Wichita’s and Quartz are mostly non stainless, constantly deteriorating with each year of rain and snow. Old deteriorating bolts are potential death traps even for experienced climbers, and we seek to replace them with well camouflaged stainless steel bolts which will not rust, and are easily removable/replaceable for future generations. We would like to return all routes to their original levels of safety, and allow climbers of all experience levels to enjoy climbing without having to wonder about the age of rusted hardware.
A stainless steel painted hanger and bolt cost around $8, so a donation of $25 would mean about 3 lead bolts replaced. The cost for an anchor ranges $40 - $60 depending on the need for chain, rap links, or lower offs. It is crucial that the hardware be disguised so that climbing continues to be viewed as minimally invasive. The upgraded hardware should last upwards of 50 years before needing to be replaced. With around 500 roped rock climbing routes in the two areas mentioned above, that equals quite a few bolts!!
Our goal of $5000 would replace a multitude of aging rock climbing anchors which are far overdue for replacement.
All funds donated will go directly to the Texas Mountaineers (a 501 (c) nonprofit), and will be used expressly to purchase stainless steel climbing hardware and replacement parts for re-bolting tools, which will serve our community of climbers for the next generations.
The Texas Mountaineers have put in over $1000 dollars replacing in excess of 65 bolts using funds from membership dues over the years.
At Lost Dome, around $700 dollars for bolts, rings and chains were installed.
In the Narrows, Close to $600 worth of hardware.
Please take a moment to check out some of these photos of our current progress.
All the bolts at Lost Dome have been replaced hole for hole. Here is a volunteer using a tool donated by the Access Fund.
A bolt from the route "Wild and Crazy" in The Narrows, it was replaced with a stainless steel bolt and hanger.
Out with the ancient, in with the shiny, new and sustainable!
An excellent day's haul of aging hardware from a re-bolting mission a couple months ago. That day we tackled "masters of reality" and some more obscure but not forgotten routes on zoo wall.
An new bolt being carefully replaced on "Scrotum Roof".
A 5 piece bolt being extracted on "Wild and Crazy".
A fresh bolt with a painted hanger from FIXE Hardware. You can barely see the bolts from the ground they are so well camouflaged!
Tensioning on a hook on a freezing cold winter day while replacing the ever so classic jug haul "Aerial Anticipation" in The Narrows.
New bolts and chains on "League Of Doom". The entirety of Lichen Wall was finished in a couple days by various knowledgable volunteers. This included "Nubian Dance" and "Isabelle", test piece routes which have not seen ascents since the heyday. Go and get it done!
Hand drilling a longer hole to replace a button head with a proper bolt.
Here is an example of what we are doing. We plan to make more informational videos of the processes in the future.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ItUJk9MKTi8
Any donation amount is helpful and greatly appreciated.
Kindly email any questions to [email redacted].
Organizer
Texas Mountaineers
Organizer
Oklahoma City, OK